Joseph created a uniform for women. The pursuit for that uniform continues; it is continually evolving and transitioning into an equation relevant for today. The pre-ss17 collection takes a utilitarian approach, drawing influence from traditional workwear through detailing and fabrication. In particular the apron – a protective, layering essential and a functioning part of many traditional uniforms – is reworked to become a decorative part of the modern wardrobe. A play between masculine and feminine silhouettes and the study of functional pieces is elevated with new proportions and fabrics. Military, workwear and nautical details punctuate the collection, such as webbing tapes, pocketing, heavy topstitching, buckles and ties. Pattern focuses on the simplicity of bi-colour stripes in varied scales and is inspired by the stripes of classic city wear, prison uniform and chef’s overalls – all recalling the concept of uniform. Colour is predominantly focused on serviceable neutrals. Off white, black, khaki, stone, marine and mustard yellow are augmented with rich tones of cardinal red, cranberry and guava. Classic durable textiles are reformulated with a luxury hand. Hopsack and hessian work alongside light parachute silks, crisp poplins and chamois suede, whilst double cotton drills, untreated denim and heavy canvas draw upon military origins. Proportions are reworked to bring a sense of ease; trousers are cut with a masculine slouch; the waist rests higher. Elongated silhouettes are layered to transition from autumn into spring.
JOSEPH modernised women. As the sixties drew to a close, Casablanca-born Joseph Ettedgui imagined a revolution in the way we buy fashion and so created a conceptual boutique to discover new ideas and new designers. Joseph brought Kenzo and Castelbajac to the world’s attention, championed Azzedine Alaïa and Yohji Yamamoto, chose Norman Foster to design a store, and was the first in London to sell Prada. Today, under the creative direction of Louise Trotter, Joseph has become a contemporary designer brand respected worldwide. Each men’s and women’s collection, shown during London Fashion Week, explores the nuances of personality through intimate detail, sartorial techniques and luxurious fabrications.