An exploration of the codes of elegance twisted and turned in ways that speak of the moment. Color and texture come to the fore as Rodolfo Paglialunga works in subtraction to create silhouettes that are bold, with a pervading ease. Shoulders are gently marked. Welcoming volumes flow vertically and graciously. Padding, quilting and ribbing give presence and depth, weightlessly. The dialogue between clothing and body in a ritual of mutual courting, from a distance, highlighted by strong layers and subtle asymmetries. The pictorial, seasonless palette of tobacco, lime yellow, light blue, red, powder pink, cream is cut with the gentle strictness of black, just like the tailored precision of mannish jackets and coats is adapted to the female form with darts and pin tucks. Ribbed dresses fall and move spontaneously; blouses turn into scarves. Severity and frivolity are constantly juxtaposed.
Double face cashmere, wool felt, chenille, metallic lurex further expand the dialogue between luxury and ease, femininity and strictness, which carries on in the accessories: sturdy pumps with rubber toes, delicate earrings.
Jil Sander is a fashion house founded by Jil Sander in 1968. Its minimalist trademarks include striking silhouettes, high-end fabrics, and meticulous detail, emphasizing quality over flash. In the years after 1978 she revolutionized the industry by marketing her first perfume with a campaign that prominently featured her own face. Her trademark look, a somewhat New Look for women conquering executive positions in the 1980s, was that of a perfectly cut pantsuit, a form-fitting simple but elegant coat or a slim blouse made of the most luxurious materials in plain grey, black, blue or white leaving out any unnecessary details, extravagant ornaments or loud colors.