This season, the inspiration for the Jil Sander Navy collection seemed a bit lofty. Dress skirts were expansive but structured, and trousers were wide with sharp front pleats. But the idea of breadth didn’t translate only through shape: A red shirtdress’s skirt cleverly had red and white blotted prints sliced in between a few of the pleats, making the piece seemingly expand. The most impressive parts of the collection were the military touches, like the army combat uniform-style shoulder pockets. Tacked onto a windowpane check gray coat and a zip-up retro polo shirt, the pocket detail added that polished tomboy tailoring the label is so well known for. A long rigger’s belt was attached to the waist of a navy blue jacket and when fastened, it created a clean but pretty hourglass silhouette around the body. Necklines stood out this season and were more revealing than usual. A cropped camel jacket with two lone double-breasted buttons and a black dress with puffed sleeves had the collars widely opened so it seemed as if they balanced low on the shoulders. It was the tomboy’s version of sex appeal.
Jil Sander is a fashion house founded by Jil Sander in 1968. Its minimalist trademarks include striking silhouettes, high-end fabrics, and meticulous detail, emphasizing quality over flash. In the years after 1978 she revolutionized the industry by marketing her first perfume with a campaign that prominently featured her own face. Her trademark look, a somewhat New Look for women conquering executive positions in the 1980s, was that of a perfectly cut pantsuit, a form-fitting simple but elegant coat or a slim blouse made of the most luxurious materials in plain grey, black, blue or white leaving out any unnecessary details, extravagant ornaments or loud colors.